Once mice have been treated, proofing is what actually stops them coming back. Mice can fit through a gap roughly the width of a pencil, so “small” gaps matter far more than they seem. Here’s a room-by-room checklist.
Kitchen
- Gaps around pipework under the sink, sealed with expanding foam or a proper pipe collar
- Gaps behind and beside built-in appliances (ovens, dishwashers) where they meet cabinetry
- Skirting board gaps, particularly at corners and where boards meet the floor
- Any gap where worktops meet the wall
Utility Areas and Boiler Cupboards
- Pipework entry points where they pass through external walls
- Gaps around boiler flue housing
- Any airing cupboard access points behind or beside the boiler
Exterior and Air Bricks
- Air bricks fitted with a proper mesh guard (not blocked entirely - they need airflow, just not mouse access)
- Gaps where extensions or conservatories meet the original structure
- Damaged or missing pointing in brickwork near ground level
Doors and Windows
- Gaps under external doors - a proper draught excluder often doubles as a mouse barrier
- Gaps around older single-glazed window frames, particularly in period properties
- Garage and shed doors, which are common secondary entry points into an attached structure
Loft and Roof Access
- Gaps where roofline meets brickwork
- Vents fitted with mesh rather than left open
- Any gap around where cabling or aerials pass through the roof
What to Use to Seal Gaps
- Wire wool or coarse steel mesh stuffed into gaps before sealing - mice can chew through expanding foam alone, but not steel wool
- Proper pipe collars for pipework penetrations, rather than just foam
- Mesh guards for air bricks and vents, which need airflow but not mouse access
When to Do This
Proofing works best once current activity has been treated and confirmed stopped - sealing entry points during an active infestation can occasionally trap mice inside rather than keep them out. Your technician will confirm the right timing for your specific situation.
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